The True Friend Travel Test

Traveling helped me separate True Friends from Imposters.

And the people in the True Friends camp were not exactly the ones I expected.

I first noticed this phenomenon - I'll call it The True Friend Travel Test - on my 15-month deployment to Afghanistan.  Some of the people I assumed would send me letters, care packages and emails didn't.  And other people, people I didn't expect to give a hoot about me, did.  In fact, they showered me with letters, care packages and emails.

I've also noticed a similar phenomenon called The True Friend Dream Test. This year, when I summoned up the courage to dedicate myself to writing, to be myself, to be authentic, some of my "True Friends" didn't "get it."  No one's been outwardly critical of my aspirations, but indifference hurts more.

Like the True Friend Travel Test, the silver lining is that others - people I hadn't met before, people I considered mere acquaintances before I announced my dream to the world - have materialized.  They've commented on my blog, sent me emails.  They've rung me up to congratulate me, encourage me, and tell me that they're inspired.  They've given me strength.

Life is odd.

Again and again I see the parallels between traveling and following one's dreams.  Both are lonely, frightening, and uncertain.  But, I'm thankful for the slew of True Friends I've acquired (and reconfirmed) in the process.  I hope I can support them on their journeys as well as they've supported me.

Travel versus Graduate School: A Fork in the Road

Before I left for India, I applied to eight graduate writing programs.  Pending acceptance, I imagined returning to America and writing my heart out for 2-3 years.  Travel changed everything, including my ideas about what constitutes an education.

Growing up, my parents encouraged me to value a formal education.  They assisted me with homework, and praised every "A."  They never said it, but I understood the expectation:  I would get a bachelor's degree and a master's degree.  I came to associate an education with an institution.

From the first day, it was obvious that travel rivals a formal education.  I had thousands of light bulb moments about politics, religion, and geography.  The world became a classroom and every person I encountered was a teacher.  (In retrospect, I learned more in 19 weeks than a year at university.)    

In India, I was accepted to four writing programs.  The news thrilled me.  But I couldn't help but ask, "Could I get a better education from travel?"

I've always been a realist when it comes to writing.  I know that a Masters in Fine Arts is not a requisite for a writer.  I know an MFA does not guarantee publication.

I don't even believe that people can teach you how to write.  You teach yourself. Still, I applied to eight graduate writing programs because I believed that an MFA could give me the resources I needed to teach myself.  It could provide me a writing community - something I've found valuable as an artist.  It could help me make contacts in the publishing world.  Above all, I believed I could improve more in two years of concerted, focused effort than six years of working full-time and writing on the side.  

When it came time to accept or decline my offers of admission (April 15th), I was in the Middle East.  I was seven weeks into my trip, travel fatigue hadn't set in, and I wanted to travel indefinitely.  The alternative to an MFA was this:  come home, cancel my cell phone, sell everything (including the car), and buy a one-way ticket to southeast Asia or Africa.

From there, my plans were vague.  I figured I'd go where I pleased and find employment along the way.  People I met on the road extended their travels by teaching English, working at restaurants and hostels, and volunteering in exchange for room and board.  I believed that I could pull it off - I still do.

I'm single, childless, and debt-free.  This may not last long.  The conditions may never be this stellar again.

At the same time, I knew the opportunity to get an MFA might not come along again, either.

MFAs are surprisingly competitive.  The schools don't care if you have a 4.0 GPA from Harvard - at least not much.  Ninety-percent of the admissions decision involves the writing portfolio.  Even if your portfolio is excellent, it may not be what the school is looking for.  When faced with two excellent portfolios, a school may choose the portfolio that most closely mirrors the type of writing that the faculty themselves are doing.  Really, it's a crapshoot.

And the stars aligned this year:  In 2010, I took a writing course at the University of Washington and had a polished portfolio.  A writing instructor and Army supervisors agreed to write me letters of recommendation.  My GRE scores hadn't expired yet!  

April 15th loomed and so began a series of sleepless nights.  Wavering, wobbling, and weighing the pros and cons.  To MFA or not?  To travel or not? Being decisive has never been my strong suit.

In the end, I chose the MFA.

It was Sister #2 who talked me down from the ledge by suggesting a compromise:  extend your trip by six weeks, then do the MFA.  That's what I did. I spent another six weeks in eastern Europe and north Africa.  Travel fatigue set in.  By the end, I was exhausted and ready to come home - at least temporarily.

Everyone's had a moment like that in life.  A moment at the fork of a road.  A moment where both paths are appealing.  Yet, you're cognizant that choosing one over the other will radically effect the rest of life.

I think I made the right decision.  I believe that formal education will improve my writing and I tell myself that when I graduate, I'll go back.  But so many things could change between now and then.  Kids, spouse, loans.  All the things that make travel difficult.

In the end, I realize that nothing is guaranteed and uncertainty is the only certainty.  Yet, I'm certain of this - travel changed me.

I can now name all 196 countries of the world.  I'm learning French.  Yesterday, I read an article about Bahrain with interest.  Bahrain!  Last year, I didn't know Bahrain existed.    

I sense that travel will be an important part of my future, an important part of my continuing education.

   

Five Benefits of Owning Fewer Possessions

Instead of renting a U-haul to drive out to Roanoke on August 1st (expensive when unemployed), I decided to ditch everything that would not fit into my 2006 Toyota Prius (and buy a cheap bed/dresser upon arrival).

It all has to fit in...there? 

Solution:
I willed all of my furniture to Sister #2 and fiancee.  They were grateful for the upgrades (and ability to relinquish that green, fart-stained couch that witnessed too many frat parties).  I warned them that I might take it back in two years when the MFA is complete.  But more than likely, I'll do something overseas when I graduate (Peace Corps?), so they'll be able to keep my furniture longer (perhaps indefinitely).  I cut my supply of non-furniture items (e.g. kitchenware, clothes, books) by about 40% by making donations to Good Will.  (If I was more frugal, I may have thrown a yard sale or sold my belongings on Craigslist or eBay, but at this point it wasn't worth the hassle.)

Outcome:
I attempted to pack my car like it's August 1st.  The remaining items do not all fit into my Toyota Prius.  Looks as though I'll need to downsize.  Again.

Pre-Good Will book collection.

What has this experience taught me?

First, nothing I've done is radical.  When I was traveling, I met people who sold everything to afford a year overseas.  They were literally carrying all of their possessions in a backpack!  Still, this has been radical - for me.

That said, downsizing is less painful than expected.

Here are five benefits of owning less:

#1.  Money Saved.
I no longer have to pay extra money for a storage facility, or a larger apartment to fit my extraneous belongings.  I can funnel that extra buck into my travel and retirement funds.

#2.  Increased Gratitude and Awareness.  
I really appreciate the things I have left.  The stuff that fits in my Toyota Prius represents about 20% of my total belongings pre-RTW adventure.  But it's the finest 20%.  It's my favorite clothes, books, blankets, and jewelry.

Moreover, I'm more aware of what I own.  I can almost list every item off the top of my head.  That, to me, is a litmus test of value.  Try it sometime.  Sit down with pen and paper in hand for 30 minutes and list your every possession. Then, compare that list to what you actually own.  If you forgot to name that wicker chair or book on beading or wool sweater, then chances are they really aren't that important to you anyway.  

#3.  More Travel Expedient.
Owning fewer belongings makes travel, relocation and living abroad simpler.  It's easier to pack it all up and take it with you.  It's easier to convince a family member or friend to store a dozen of your boxes in their attic as opposed to 12 dozen.

When your boss offers you a chance to work at the corporate office in Beijing, or the kids move out and you can finally execute a RTW trip, or you get that hankering to volunteer at an orphanage in Maputo, you're more likely to go for it (and less likely to use your belongings as an excuse for not embarking on the thrill of a lifetime).

#4.  Other People are Happier.
Think about how many books you own that you've read once and never opened again.  Or how many clothes, in the depths of your closet, that haven't been modeled since 2005.  If you're not using an item on a regular basis (say, once per week) consider that it's just taking up space.  Someone else would love to read that post-noir novel or slip into your Jimmy Choos.  Spread the happiness.

#5.  Less Likely to Overspend Again.
When you're constantly buying things that you don't need, it becomes a habit. You start to do it automatically, oftentimes to fill some physical, emotional, spiritual or mental void.  Once you downsize, you may realize that life is possible without the clutter.  You might find other pastimes to fill aforementioned voids that don't involve a credit card swipe (e.g. walking, frisbee golf, french kissing/petting, people watching, the public library).  In the future, you'll be less inclined to live outside of your means.

The bane of my existence.

Consider that living outside of one's means is a key reason why we're experiencing the current economic downturn.

Also consider this:  a wide body of research indicates that once a person has enough money to meet their basic needs (e.g. food, shelter), increases in wealth have little effect on personal happiness.  According to this research, happiness is most closely tied to job satisfaction and personal relationships - not how many pairs of galoshes, ceramic mugs, and New York Times best sellers you have at home.

Minneapolis, Minnesota

My family lives in the Twin Cities (Minneapolis + St. Paul metropolitan area), and I've resided here for the past month.

I wanted to add Minneapolis to my travel blog in order to encourage people to visit Minnesota, The Land of 10,000 Lakes.  The stereotypes about Minneapolis tend not to advance Minnesota as a top American travel destination.  They are:

#1.  The weather in Minneapolis is akin to an arctic tundra.  Pack your snowsuit if you come - the temperature is below freezing much of the year.


#2.  Minnesota is nothing more than farm fields (think Iowa) and back woods (think West Virginia).  Translation:  Unless you love the Great Outdoors, there is nothing to do.

Here's my take on the stereotypes, having lived for 18 years in Minneapolis before going off to college and joining the Army.  (Like most stereotypes, there is a kernel of truth to both assertions...)

Low-Down on Misconception #1

Stats:  Yes, Minneapolis has the coldest average temperature of any major metropolitan area in America.  (The average temperature in January is 13.1 degrees Fahrenheit).  However, despite the cold, winters are sunny.  And, these temps are not indicative of the entire year - summer days in Minnesota are warm to hot and usually humid.  (The average temperature in July is 73.2 degrees Fahrenheit).

My Take:  If only there was a way to cut January and February from the Minneapolis calendar.  Besides these two months, the climate in the Twin Cities is terrific.  By early March, the snow is melted and we transition into a pleasant, lukewarm Spring.  Summers in Minneapolis last forever.  Despite humidity, the heat is rarely oppressive.  Almost everyday is sunny, and rain, when it happens, is often accompanied by lightning and thunder (I missed summer storms when I lived near Seattle).

Having resided in several states, I believe Minneapolis has the most picturesque Autumn in America (there's a reason why the Twin Cities marathon, in October, has been dubbed "The Most Beautiful Urban Marathon in America.)  November is a draw - the leaves are down, it's grey and cool, but snow is unlikely. Minneapolis usually receives it's first snowfall in December which rocks - IMO, no Christmas can top a White Christmas.  But by January and February, you're wishing the snow (and the cold) would go away.

Bottom line:  If you find a winter sport to love (be that downhill skiing, nordic skiing, snowshoeing, ice fishing, snowmobiling, etc.), invest in high quality winter gear (e.g. North Face, Columbia), and keep a stash of hot chocolate and Bailey's handy, then January and February in Minneapolis can be more than tolerable, they can be some of the best weeks of the year.  If not, you may decide that the other 10 months make up for it.

Low-Down on Misconception #2

Stats:  The Twin Cities metropolitan area is the 16th largest metropolitan area in America.  With a population of 3.5 million people, 60% of the state's population lives in the Twin Cities.

My Take:  Since 60% of the population lives in the Twin Cities, people that travel to other parts of the state are likely to see lots of woods (northern Minnesota), lots of farmland (southern Minnesota), and not a lot of people.  If you're an outdoors enthusiast you're in heaven, but if you prefer concrete and Gucci, most of Minnesota's draws are clustered around Minneapolis.

Minnesota basically invented shopping - we have the world's first enclosed Mall (Southdale) and the world's largest Mall (The Mall of America).  There are theaters (30+ venues, 100+ companies), clubs, bars and restaurants galore. An enticing string of lakes wind through the Twin Cities.  If you're a fitness fanatic, you'll encounter a plethora of fit, latex-clad bodies (we're routinely ranked as one of the top two or three bike cities in America and have one of the lowest obesity rates in the nation).

Bottom line:  A City Gal or Boy will find a lot to love about the Twin Cities (the rest of the state, not so much).

...All these years later, I may finally understand the appeal of my hometown. And I may finally understand a little bit of what T.S. Eliott meant when he said:

"We shall not cease from exploring.  And the end of our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time."   

It's a Wrap

I've been back in America for nearly two weeks.  Enough time to reunite with family and friends, attend to administrative needs, and shift from travel mode to MFA writing mode.

These two weeks also gave me time to reflect upon my trip (I imagine I'll be reflecting upon this life experience for years to come).  As an intuitive person, I can't help but be introspective - I always try to see the big picture, to ask myself, "What did this experience MEAN?"

Traveling was the first major thing I did after getting out of the military, and I believe it set the tone for how I live the rest of my life.  It changed me in dozens of ways but I feel like I can place most of these changes under three umbrellas:

Jaisalmer

Udaiper

Varanasi

Agra

Self-confidence

The most obvious change is that I'm more self-confident.  I gained self-confidence because I had to depend on myself for everything.  I had no one holding my hand, standing by my side, or giving me advice from afar (left the cell phone at home, and email was often sketchy).  Out of my comfort zone, I land navigated, practiced street smarts, decided who to trust and not to trust, secured food and lodging, translated and was translated to.  I cleared dozens of challenges every day, challenges that I don't encounter to nearly the same degree when I'm back in my comfort zone in America...

As a more self-confident person, I believe my opinion is valid.  I believe my opinion is valid because I don't feel that I'm below anyone anymore.  I feel like I have an array of life experiences to impart.

As a more self-confident person, I've noticed that my body image is improved. For the first time in 28 years I not only accept my body but I OWN my body. There is a distinct mental shift between the two. Reaching that next step on the road of evolution is empowering.

As a more self-confident person, my tactics toward endurance training have changed.  I've been an endurance athlete since I was 15-years-old.  I love pushing my body further and further on the swim, bike and run.  I'm excited to train for my second half-ironman and first full-ironman while I complete the MFA.

As I eased back into exercise these past two weeks (after not working out for five months), I noticed that I was more gentle with my body.  I'm enjoying the journey more and not taking everything so seriously.  I'm eating more protein and less sugar.  I'm making adjustments to my swim, bike and run form, and I'm backing off (and readjusting) whenever I feel pain in my joints, ligaments and tendons.  I'm more determined than ever to be a better athlete, but I'm less obsessive compulsive.

Tel Aviv

Jerusalem

Petra

Cairo

Dreaming  

I've always considered myself a dreamer, but seeing the world in all it's diversity made me dream not only as big as I used to dream when I was a kid, but bigger than I ever thought possible.

That said, I realize that dreaming isn't action.  (In fact, dreaming can be self-indulgent and take our minds off of appreciating the here and now.)  Fulfilling those dreams requires risk-taking and work.  That's the truth and it's not glamorous.

I identified two stumbling blocks to fulfilling dreams - fear of uncertainty, and fear of non-conformity.  Those two fears remain.  But I developed two corresponding mantras:
-There is no certainty in life but uncertainty.  
-There are absolutely no rules to the game of life.

Paris

Berlin

Athens

Sarajevo

Venice

Risk taking.

Getting out of the Army, traveling, and pursuing an MFA involved a risk.  Some people would say that I committed financial suicide, but I knew that if I didn't take this risk I would regret it for the rest of my life. Ultimately, regret is more scary than failure.    

The past 10 months have been an emotional rollercoaster.  I've been wracked with fear on many occasions, but have noticed something peculiar:  when I set out into the unknown, "stepping stones" have continually appeared.  I've never been given more than I can handle (and some of the things I thought I couldn't navigate at first glance proved navigable).    

...I've noticed that many people talk about the great things they did in their teens and 20s (but what about ages 30-100?).  When you ask them about themselves and what they're proud about in life, they mention something that they did decades ago (with a whimsical, far-off look in their eye).  They say things like, "I wish I was young like you," or "Do it now because once you settle down it's too difficult..."  

That's not the way I want to live life.  When people ask me what I'm proud about 60 years from now, I want to mention something I did last month, last week, yesterday.  I want to keep on forcing myself out of that comfort zone.  I want to continue to do great things - not out of feelings of obligation or some masochistic desire to appear a martyr, but because I'm passionate and excited and ENJOY empowering people and affecting change.  

I don't believe that "settling down" is an excuse to stop being great and doing great things.  If I find a partner, and EVERYDAY with him feels like Sunday afternoon (comfortable, easy, no challenges, no risks) then it's time to look elsewhere.  I believe that the best romantic partnerships challenge people to grow and evolve, to explore, to take risks, and to get out of their comfort zone.  

I don't WANT to be the same person, to have the same ideas, opinions and perspectives I had at 28 for the rest of my life.  

If travel left one imprint on me it was this:  savor the journey but don't stop EVOLVING.    

P.S...

Istanbul

Marrakech

...I've been trying to decide what to do with this blog now that my first RTW trip is done and dusted.  I don't want to write garbage, so I won't be writing as much as when I was on the road.  But I want to keep Random Road Revelations active. Travel is travel, and there are plenty of American cities to see before my next RTW adventure.

The plan is to live frugally, work hard, keep a budget, and save up enough money so that I can spend my 30th birthday next summer in southern Africa.
  

45 Miscellaneous Travel Tips

Here are 45 travel tips I compiled during my RTW trip.  Hope something in here helps you.

PREP:
1.  Consider the weather.  I started my trip in February in India and moved south to north.  In March, I was in the Middle East.  In April, May and June, I was in Europe.  I felt like I got the best weather everywhere I went.  Consider if I'd done the trip backwards.  Europe can be cold and rainy in February, and India is extremely hot in May and June.
2.  Buy travel insurance.  Companies like Travel Guard (http://www.travelguard.com/) offer modestly priced, customized insurance options that can be comprehensive, if you so desire (mine covered medical care, medical evacuation, flight change, lost and stolen luggage, etc.).  Having travel insurance gave me peace of mind.
3.  Consider buying round-the-world plane tickets.  They can save you a bundle.
Suggestions include:    
Oneworld:  http://www.oneworld.com/

Round The World Experts:  http://www.roundtheworldexperts.co.uk/

STA Travel:  http://www.statravel.com/  

Intrepid Travel (has flight specialists if you book a trip with them):  http://www.intrepidtravel.com/

Round The World Flights:  http://www.roundtheworldflights.com/


PACK:

4.  As lightly as possibly.  Most anything you forget or feel like you need more of can be purchased overseas for much less than you'd pay at home.  (I limited myself to a 50 liter backpack and wish I'd gone even smaller.)
5.  A student ID (ISAC).  Almost every tourist attraction gave student discounts.
6.  Something small and inexpensive from your country to give to new friends.  This could include postcards from your hometown (with your email or mailing address written on the back if you so choose), or some of your country coins.  One of the girls I traveled with in India brought along balloons for the kiddos and they were a hit.
7.  Earplugs.  There are a lot of snorers at the hostels.  I'm just saying...
8.  A Teva-like sandal.  The Teva has all the advantages of a flip-flop sandal (ample ventilation, not sweat inducing) yet it can be comfortably worn when walking miles through a new city.
9.  A day pack.  The day pack should fit your camera, your water bottle, and your cash purse.  Take the day pack with you when you're exploring a new city, and leave the backpack locked up at your hostel.  Buy a day pack that can be secured with a lock while it's on your back.  Mine just had a drawstring, so I often wore it to my front, or tied the drawstring into a knot.


MONEY:
10.  Tell your bank exactly which countries you will be traveling to.  That way, when your credit card is swiped at an ATM in Istanbul, the bank will not shut off your card or assume it was stolen.
11.  Make sure you know your credit card pin number.  I knew my debit card had a pin number, but not my credit card.  If you use your credit card to withdraw money from an ATM, the machine will ask you for the pin number.
12.  Check your online credit card statement weekly for fraudulent charges. Keep all major receipts.


FOOD:
13.  Find a local person to take you out for a meal.  They know the best places, and they're probably less expensive than the place you were thinking about eating.
14.  Look for a place without any tourists inside (you'll probably need to walk outside the main tourist strip for this and do some digging).  If the menu is only written in a foreign language, that's another good sign, too.  If everyone inside is a local, the food is likely to be considerably cheaper (and in my opinion, considerably better.)
15.  Buy your food at the grocery store or a local farmers market.  This is probably the cheapest option and most hostels have a kitchen where you can prepare your own meals.
16.  Avoid gas stations, vending machines, airport/train food, and tourist hotspots.  You'll be paying up the ass for stuff that probably isn't even that great.
17.  Buy a refillable water bottle and some dish soap to clean it.  You'll save a bundle on bottled water.


COMMUNICATION:

18.  Don't underestimate non-verbal communication.  Even without being able to speak the local language, I've gotten along surprisingly well with hand gestures, pointing at maps, saying a single word as a question (e.g. toilet, internet, bus), exaggerated facial expressions, and drawing pictures.  Be creative.  

19.  Talk in the local language when you can.  I don't speak Spanish, but when I was in Spain I made an effort to say "gracias" instead of "thank you" and "buenos dias" instead of "good morning."  I noticed that the locals respect you more when make an attempt to use their language, even when you only know ten words of it.


HASSLING:

20.  In places where bartering is acceptable, always take 1/2 the price the shopkeeper initially gives you and start negotiations there.  Don't be afraid to go even lower (remember that the shopkeeper knows what the item is worth and is not going to sell you something unless they can make a profit).
21.  If the shopkeeper is being stingy, simply tell them the item is too expensive and start to walk away.  It's amazing how quickly they will cut 20 to 30 percent off the price when they realize you are leaving their store.
22.  Never keep a promise you can't keep (e.g. I'm not going to buy today but I promise you I will come back and buy tomorrow).  You wouldn't want someone to do it to you, so don't do it to others.
23.  Always be situationally aware but if you really aren't looking to buy anything, it helps not to make eye contact with the vendors.  When vendors see you staring at them, they hone in on you like a vulture to a corpse.
24.  I usually say "hello" or "good morning" when spoken to (it's basic politeness) but beyond that basic response I don't feel like I owe vendors/random men/beggars/etc. a lengthy conversation.  Many people will try to strike up a conversation with you in order to get you to see their store (or their cousin's store, or their brother's store).  If you don't want to buy or don't feel like getting sidetracked, ignore further attempts at conversation, look straight ahead, and keep on walking.
25.  Remember, there is usually no such thing as a favor.  When a person helps you find your hostel or the train station, lets you photograph them, etc. they will probably expect money in return.  Either do not accept a favor or be clear that you will not be paying them for a favor that often takes little to no effort on their part.


TAXIS:
26.  Always agree on a price before you get into a taxi.  Once you've agreed on a price and step inside that taxi, the price is set.  There is no asking for a lower fare mid-ride.
27.  If a taxi driver tries to charge you a higher fare than what you agreed upon after you reach your destination threaten to call the police.  That will must likely end the conversation.
28.  Carry the business card of your hostel with you.  The taxi driver might not understand English, but most of them can read and understand a name and address.
29.  When you walk outside an airport, or a bus or train terminal, do not take the nearest taxi.  Sometimes taxis pay an entrance fee to nab that lucrative spot directly outside the airport, bus or train terminal, and they are going to try and take advantage of stupid and/or filthy rich tourists.  Walk a ways down the line before you approach a taxi driver for a price quote.  Once you've gotten a price quote (and know generally what the taxi drivers are going to charge you), consider walking further done the line and see if you can get an even cheaper fare.  Don't be afraid to barter.


TRANSPORTATION:
30.  Walk whenever you can.  You'll see more of the city (the biggest gems are often beyond the tourist strip), get exercise, and save cash.
31.  The metro, tram, trolley and bus lines are almost always cheaper than a taxi.  Some cities offer a 5-day pass or a 10-day pass or some sort of extended day pass that can save you money if you are going to be in that city for several days.  Look for it when purchasing your ticket.
32.  Take overnight transportation, if possible.  You'll save money on a hostel, see the countryside, and gain more sightseeing time at your follow-on destination.  Consider bringing up a blow-up neck pillow to help you sleep better.


DO:

33.  Journal every day.  It's amazing the details I've already forgotten from my travels that I remember again every time I reread my journal.

34.  Get lost sometimes.  I learned so much more about the people, the culture, and the country just by walking around for hours in areas I was not familiar with. Sticking strictly to the tourist attractions is overrated.

35.  Read literature from the countries you are visiting.  I can't explain it, but there is something about reading native literature while in the country that makes the experience of travel more profound.  Afterwards, you understand both the literature and the country better.

36.  Back up your photos every day at websites like Photobucket.  My sister pressed the "Reformat Memory Card" button on my camera midway through my trip and I lost 1000s of pictures.  Luckily, I'd downloaded many pictures on my blog and emailed others to family and friends, so I was able to salvage some of my photos.  But it was still a major loss.  

37.  See if the city has a Free Tour.  Most of the cities I've been to have one. You pay no money upfront and, at the end, you decide how much (or little) to tip the guide.


STREET SMARTS:

38.  Leave the club wear at home.  When I travel I dress more conservatively than I do at home.  When I'm in places like the Middle East I dress more conservatively still (e.g. long-sleeved shirts, pants, and sometimes a scarf).  Often, I wear sunglasses.  I am not saying you have to bring along a bunch of moo moos and track pants, but ditch the mini skirts and midriff-baring halter tops.  It attracts unwanted attention from unsavory men.  You're going to get enough male attention, anyway.  Why make it worse?

39.  Be a smart drinker.  I can't stress this enough.  Bad things happen to intoxicated females (and males).  I met ladies who had been dated raped and mugged when they were drunk.  If I did decide to drink, I often did so at lunch or an early dinner when it was still light outside.  If I wanted to drink at night I drank at an establishment that was within spitting distance of my hostel or I drank at the hostel (most hostels had a terrace, some even had a bar).

40.  Look both ways (twice) before you cross any street.  It sounds so obvious but I had several close encounters with cars (reckless and/or preoccupied drivers abound and traffic rules differ from country to country).

41.  Split up important travel documents.  Always leave your passport and one credit or debit card locked up at the hostel.  Carry an alternate ID (e.g. driver's license), and an alternate credit or debit card on your person.  That way if your day pack is lost or stolen you are not completely screwed. 

42.  Carry emergency information.  I carried a tag with my blood type, allergy information and a person at home to contact in case of an emergency.   I also carried the business card of the hostel I was staying at.  I figured it was good information for the police to know if they found my dead and/or unconscious body.

43.  Consider the status of your day pack.  Always lock your day pack (or knot the drawstring) when you're out and about.  Consider carrying your day pack to the front, especially at night.  When at restaurants, place your day pack on the chair next to you or on the table, not on the floor.

44.  Get lost (during the day).  I think the best way to get to know a city is to get completely lost in it.  You stumble across all sorts of things you'd never see if you stick to the (boring) tourist circuit.  But get lost in the morning and early afternoon.  I made sure I knew where I was again (and how to get back to my hostel) well before the sun started to set.  When it was dark outside I always stuck to main roads with lots of people on them.
45.  Be conscious of pointing the undersides of your feet at people, giving the thumbs up sign, etc.  In parts of the world, these gestures can be considered offensive and/or provocative.

Some Things I Realized Overseas

I love my country.  I'm proud to be an American and I'll never take my freedoms for granted.  That said, I learned a couple of things overseas that I might not have realized in America, at least not this year...

1.  The Answers to My Issues, Problems and Questions.
There is something about being away from everything familiar, away from your possessions, and in a foreign land where you don't know anybody and can't speak the language that makes everything else you've been grappling with in life seem suddenly so clear.  I solved many of the issues, problems and questions that I'd been dealing with my entire adult life on this trip and I came back feeling more grounded, stable and mature.  I'm sure I would have solved many of these issues, problems and questions sooner or later even if I had not traveled, but something about travel speeds up the process 10-fold.  Travel is like intensive psychotherapy.  If you are in a rut, my prescription is to travel somewhere that take you out of your comfort zone.  

2.  Barrack Obama Is an International Superstar.
Love him or hate him, our president's popularity overseas was undeniable.  When I told someone I was American, the usual response was some variant of "I love Obama" (sometimes accompanied with a fist pump).  This happened everywhere I went, from India to the Middle East to north Africa and all over Europe.  When I mentioned the Barrack phenomenon to a conservative friend, she argued that Barrack Obama is only an international superstar because he's weakened America's position in the world.  (As a moderate, I argue that it's equally as likely that Obama's superstar status is a backlash from poor choices made by the George W. Bush regime.)  Either way, it's something to ponder...

3.  First Impressions are Deceiving.
I can't tell you how many times I struck up a conversation with some dirty, toothless guy on a street corner in Bum Fuck No Where only to discover that he had three children, spoke five languages, was an entrepreneur, had a pilot's license, once lived out-of-the-country, had survived a war and a stint in a refugee camp, and the list continues.  Pretty much everyone had a compelling story to tell.  The most compelling stories came from the people I least expected.

4.  Their Stereotypes Are Just as Wrong as Our Stereotypes.
I went in there with some of the usual stereotypes about them (e.g. Muslim women are repressed) but what I didn't anticipate was the stereotypes they had about us.  Apparently, because I am a Westerner I live a lifestyle like The Real Housewives.  (A shopkeeper in Cairo asked me if Daddy was financing my RTW trip.  Umm, excuse me?  It's called a full time job, you idiot.)  Shopkeepers routinely tried to sell Westerners items that were 10 to 20 times more expensive than the local fare.  Some of the prices were downright ridiculous.  (Do you really think I would pay $50 for a nondescript necklace that I could get for $15 back in the States?)  But what really made me livid was the stereotype that Western women are "easy" and an automatic lay.  I met plenty of gentlemen who didn't go there, but there were also scumbags who equated Westerner with Sexual Deviant (the drunk frat girls wearing micro mini skirts and boob baring halter tops on vacay certainly didn't help).

5.  Islam Is a Peaceful Religion.
In Cairo, my Muslim friend, Hend, tried to convince me that Islam was not the corrupt religion I'd pinned it for post 9/11.  I had two objections to Islam when I started this trip:  the supposed second-class treatment of women, and the acts of terror committed in the name of religion.  Hend explained that the Koran preaches tolerance, peacefulness and respect toward women.  In fact, the Koran says that women are equal to men.  When I pointed out that leaders in some Arab nations use Islam to justify second-class treatment of women, she argued that these leaders are misquoting the Koran and that repression of women is a country phenomenon, not a religious phenomenon.  It's the reason why Muslim countries like Turkey and Egypt are incredibly progressive in their treatment of women, whereas women can't even drive a car in Muslim Saudi Arabia.  OK, point taken, it's a country thing not a Muslim thing.  But what about the terrorism?  Again, Hend reiterated that Islam is a tolerant and peaceful religion. "Osama Bin Laden is not a real Muslim," she said.  I heard this point echoed not only be Hend, but by Muslims all over the world on my trip, "Osama Bin Laden is not a real Muslim," "Osama Bin Laden is not one of us,"  "A true Muslim would never do what Osama Bin Laden did."  

6.  Single People are Everywhere.
If you are a single person, I'm sure this fear-mongering tactic has been used on you:  "You better find someone quickly because the longer you wait the harder it's going to be to find someone.  Eventually, you will be so old that there will be no one left to marry."  On the same token, I know people who stay in unhappy, disfunctional relationships because they are too afraid to be single.  For instance, a lady I know has been dating the same guy for over a decade.  She told me that they are not compatible; in fact, living in the same apartment with him has been fraught with problems, but she believes she's invested too much time in the relationship to pull the plug.  "I'm 26," she told me.  "There are no single men my age in the world."  Certainly, people that truly love, understand and tolerate us are not a dime a dozen, and when we find a terrific person we should never take them for granted.  But I disagree with the notion of settling for someone that does not make you happy simply because you think you will never find better or because you think there is no else out there to date.  I met hundreds of decent, single people on this trip.  Some were divorcees, some had ended a long-term dating relationship, some just hadn't found the right person yet.  Not only are there plenty of people out there, but there is great diversity.  Keep living your life and following your dreams, ignore the fear-mongering naysayers, and do not despair.

7.  A Day Can Begin at Night.
So many times on my trip I'd be walking back to my hostel at 5 p.m. thinking what a great day I'd had, how it was winding down now and I was just going to take a shower, write for a few hours, and hit the hay.  Then I'd bump into Franz so-and-so or Franzette so-and-so near my hostel, we'd hit it off and end up having a wonderfully insightful conversation over a glass of wine and some kick-ass cuisine.  A day is precious, and it can surprise you and teach you the most amazing lessons at any hour.  Let yourself be surprised and consider each encounter or scenario as a gift from the universe.

8.  Writing Is Hard
On the trip, I forced myself to write for 3-4 hours every single day.  My writing improved when I made it a habit (in the past I'd only written when I was inspired).  But I also realized that writing is hard.  There were plenty of days where I stared at a blank computer screen or a blank sheet of paper and stared and stared and stared.  I never knew what the finished product was going to look like.  I'd start writing about one topic and realize mid-writing that I really wanted to write about something different (and I'd veer off course).  Sometimes it took me three hours to write a blog entry that took 30 seconds to read.  Writing is not a glamorous job, or as glamorous as it seems.  That said, there is nothing else I'd rather do for a living and I've committed my life to it.  But the act of creating something is difficult; oftentimes it's exceedingly, despairingly difficult.    

Material Girl

When I was backpacking through India in February, I met an Australian named Sarah.  At the ripe old age of 24 (or maybe it was 25) Sarah looked around one day and realized that she had it all:  a PhD, a job at a vet clinic, a live-in boyfriend, and loads of material things including a house.

Sarah was surprised to realize that, despite having everything a person could or should want in life, she felt like something was missing.  Her subconscious kept whispering, "There's more to life than this.  There's more to life than this..."

Sarah then did something that amazed me.  She quit her job, broke up with her boyfriend, and sold her possessions so that she could travel the world for several months and relocate to London.  When I met her in India, she was carrying everything she owned in her backpack.

Sarah's story was the first travel experience that really got me thinking about possessions.  I've never pinned myself as a Material Girl.  I kept my apartment sparse, preferring quality to quantity, but the thought of parting with the little I owned was terrifying.

As days on the road turned into weeks, I thought less and less about possessions.  There was so much going on around me that material things seemed secondary.  I felt like I was a child again - everything was new and novel and I was experiencing it for the first time.

For the second time since Afghanistan, I saw poverty.  But I also saw people that were happy.  They did not own a glitzy house, designer clothes or a sports car, but they drew happiness from religion, family and friends.  Many people appeared happier than my American friends.

After nearly forgetting I owned anything, I was jolted back to reality when I landed in Minneapolis on Sunday night.  Looking around, I was amazed to rediscover all of the things I left behind.

I sat in my parent's guest bedroom fingering strands of pearls, gazing at cocktail rings, and sniffing Calvin Klein perfume.  I stroked silk blouses, and cashmere sweaters.  I surveyed my Toyota Prius, Vita Mix blender, Specialized mountain bike and Macbook.  I perused my book collection and drove to a storage facility to peer at my mahogany kitchen table, queen-sized bed, and other furniture.

I do not believe I own much compared to the average American (nor have I ever felt as attached to material things as some of my friends).  When I left for India, the bulk of my possessions fit into a 5' X 10' storage facility.  But after living out of a 50 liter backpack for 19 weeks, and seeing real poverty, I feel different.

I feel like I own a massive amount of stuff.  I feel spoiled.  And for the first time in my life, I feel more attached to and controlled by material things than I realized.

I'm sickened not only by what I see in the guest bedroom and in the storage facility but also what I see in society.  Ads on TV implore me to buy.  Ads on the radio implore me to buy.  Billboards on the highway implore me to buy.

Everywhere I look, something is for sale, and unless I buy it I'm not "cool" or "good enough."

Since I've been home, I've had the weirdest feeling.  I feel overwhelmed by my possessions and I want to give them away.  Another Material Girl can have my blender, my cocktail rings, my cashmere sweaters.

I want to throw that 50 liter backpack on my back and walk out the door.  Catch a plane and land in some dusty little "hell hole" of the world where possessions fade into the background and I'm dazzled again by the rawness of the world around me.

Savannah, Georgia

The Greyhound dropped me off in Savannah, Georgia, where I spent two days with a friend from college.

We had not seen each other for five years due to overlapping deployment schedules, but once reunited it felt like we hadn't been apart for more than a day.  That's a testament to true friendship.

A defining feature of Savannah is the plethora of live oaks covered in Spanish moss.

My friend was a History major in college, and she took no time telling me about the Hostess City of the South.  Here's a recap:

General James Oglethorpe and 120 ship passengers landed in Savannah in February 1733.  Georgia was America's 13th and final English colony, and Savannah was it's first city.

Upon arrival, Oglethorpe befriended the local Indian Chief, Tomochici.  Due to their friendship, Savannah did not experience the warfare and hardships that plagued other American colonies.

Oglethorpe laid out the city in a series of grids with wide boulevards and leafy public squares.  Twenty-two of Oglethorpe's original twenty-four squares are still standing.

During the Civil War, the Union Army imposed strict sea blockades that destroyed Savannah's economy.  In December 1862, General Sherman and his soldiers began their "March to the Sea," destroying Atlanta and other cities in Georgia.  Upon arrival in Savannah, General Sherman was so taken by it's beauty, that he could not destroy it.  Instead, Sherman offered Savannah as a Christmas gift to President Abraham Lincoln on December 22nd, 1864.

Church from Forrest Gump.

After the Civil War, Savannah's economy recovered.  The economy was based on cotton, and was bolstered by the arrival of new industries like resin and lumber.  
In the 1950's, a group of women formed the Historic Savannah Foundation.  The Foundation preserved many buildings, helping Savannah to become a tourist hotspot.

Unique architectural details.

Great shopping on River Street...

...and on Commerce Street.

Savannah is the birthplace of Juliette Gordon Low, founder of the Girl Scouts.

The Olde Pink House, one of America's most haunted buildings.

Savannah made me excited to live in the South.  The US Census Bureau divides America into four regions:  West, Midwest, Northeast, South.  I've lived for more than six months in the West (Washington), the Midwest (Minnesota, Missouri), and the Northeast (New York).  But this will be my first time living in the South, and I'm looking forward to southern cooking, southern accents, southern hospitality, and being a seven-hour drive from the Hostess City of the South.  

Homeward Bound

"Heat prickled my cheeks.  My hands went clammy.  Love is a lot like food poisoning."

-Suzanne Supplee

Homeward Bound started with food poisoning.

I traveled for 19 weeks in places like India, Egypt and Turkey and routinely ate food from street vendors and local hole-in-the-walls.  I thought my stomach could handle anything, and I mean anything.

Apparently "anything" does not include a ham and cheese sandwich from a train station in Marrakech.  That sandwich took a few hours to affect me, but when it did I began projectile vomiting:  in the Madrid airport bathroom, in the Madrid metro station (I apologize to the person who had to clean it up!), and on Sister # 2s terrace.  Not pleasant, and I was distraught because I had to catch an 8:54 a.m. flight the next morning.

Still feeling the ravages of food poisoning, I woke up and walked from Sister # 2s apartment to the metro.  I got lost on my way to the metro which is improbable; it is literally one block away.  I should have been at the hospital with an IV hooked in my arm and was practically hallucinating.

Once at the airport, it took too much effort to even stand while waiting to check in.  So I sat on my backpack and scooted my ass along the floor as the line moved.  When I finally reached the check-in desk, I requested an aisle seat close to the bathroom.

Luckily, I felt better by the end of the day, and I got to sit next to Alex from Russia on the plane.  This was Alex's first international flight, and it was his first time in America.  I do not know who was more excited to arrive in NYC, me or Alex.  I have never seen anyone so giddy about the Big Apple.

I helped Alex fill out his customs forms and realized how much more compassionate I am toward foreign visitors after being one for nearly five months.

Next, I caught a Greyhound bus from New York City to Savannah.  I've never ridden a Greyhound before and my immediate impression was that waiting in the Manhattan Greyhound Station is 50 times more shady than sleeping on a park bench in the Czech Republic.

These were some of the conversations going on around me:

"Jermaine, you get over here now or I'm gonna SLAP you!"
-Angry black woman to her disobedient son.


"That bitch, she stole my car!  I'm gonna KILL that bitch!"  
-Man in a trench coat to a man in a trench coat. 


"I got yo' money.  Aight, meet me behind Tyrone's place." 
-Man on phone, possibly to a drug dealer.


"Oh yeah, baby, work that ASS!" 
-Man to morbidly obese, legging-clad girlfriend who was performing a "shake my ass on your crotch" dance move.

The station was awash in afros, gold teeth, one-legged men, crack addicts, and midgets.  I felt like I was at the circus.

Obese children sucked on sugary beverages, attacked economy-sized bags of Cheetos and text messaged friends on their iPhone.  Please explain to me why a nine-year-old needs an iPhone?  Or rather, why a family that can afford to buy all three of their under-10 children an iPhone is taking the Greyhound from New York City to Oakland, California?

Was this really the America I missed so much?  

The Manhattan Greyhound Station made me understand why we're losing our economic edge in the world to countries like India and China.

With that said, I predict that cross-country bus and train companies are going to undergo a revitalization in America.

When purchased online three weeks in advance , it costs $79 to take the bus from New York City to Savannah.  Meanwhile, it costs $280 to fly the same distance.  Of course, bus travel is more time intensive, but if you travel overnight you might sleep away 7 or 8 hours of the journey.  To pass the rest of the time, there is free WiFi onboard.

At a bus reststop in South Carolina, I'm embarrassed to say I feasted on some Popeye's.

While the people riding Greyhound are "weirder" than the ones you find on a plane, I gained a new appreciation for America's bus and train network during my Homeward Bound expedition.    

Proud to be an American

“A wise traveler never despises his own country.”

-Carlo Goldoni

One day, when I was about 15, I got it into my head that I wanted to join the Army.  Like so many of life's obsessions and fascinations, I'm not exactly sure where it came from.

But I do know that my love of America had a lot to do with it.
 
Pictures are from the National Geographic website, available for view at:
http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/countries/united-states-photos/

Four years at a military academy, and 5 1/2 years of active duty military service (including a 15-month tour in eastern Afghanistan) did not decrease my patriotism.  If anything, my affiliation with the military only makes me more Proud to Be An American...

That is not to say that my American pride has not ebbed and waned over the years...  Even on this trip, I've hesitated to tell people where I come from, for fear of being shunned or treated differently (not everyone in the world loves America like I do).

My classmate Stephanie, another avid traveler, told me that when she embarked on her first RTW expedition she decided she wanted to keep on traveling until she understood what it really meant to be an American.  Until she could feel that love of country once again. 

Nineteen countries, and 47 cities later, I no longer have any qualms about telling people I meet where I herald from.  They might not like America, they might not like me because I am an American, but I am OK with that...

Because I have freedom of religion, freedom of speech, freedom of the press, freedom of assembly, and the right to petition the government...

Because the sight of the Iwo Jima Memorial still brings me to tears.

Because we are supported by brave soldiers.  Some of them do not support the war in Iraq or the war in Afghanistan, or any war for that matter, but they are out there doing their job, anyway.  Because they respect the American democratic system, and they are carrying out the actions and ideals ordained by the majority. 

Travel made me realize that America does not have all of the world's answers.  We haven't got the perfect system of government.  There is always room for improvement in America.  But despite it all, I am proud of where I come from.

Because I have the most priceless thing in the world and I will never take it for granted:  I am free.

“No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow.”

-Lin Yutang